Category ‘fashion’

Weekend Trend // Blue and White china jewellery

Posted in fashion, shopping on Sunday, March 3rd, 2013

I met Alexandra Abraham a couple of years ago, and immediately fell in love with her art, and particularly her jewellery. Not only it is to my personal taste, but I love the story behind it. When Alexandra invited me to her studio, I saw the incredible variety of materials, mostly antique, all object trouvé (or donated to her, or inherited), that she uses, and got lost listening to the tales behind the old coins, the XVI century clay pipes, and the pieces I am most drawn to, the blue and white china fragments.

In Alexandra’s words: “I believe that almost every material or object can be beautiful; it is simply a matter of how they are perceived. I’m inspired by the origins of my materials and excited by the physical process of turning the lost and the forgotten into something exquisite, glamorous and even wearable. The sense of history and knowledge that people have handled and used my materials many years ago is extremely important to me, and I like to imagine that something of their spirit becomes invested in my work. This is what I love best about upcycling, knowing that most of the pieces I use have had a previous life, that many people have touched them and loved them, and that possibly, hopefully, something of their spirit endures in my work.

Giovanni Scafuro was born in Naples and while still very young he began to work with artisans like potters, blacksmiths, carpenters, from whom he learned the applied art of manual trades. Today, he works with objects of daily use, lamps, chairs, tables, and jewels. The recycle, the reuse are a constant of Giovanni’s continuous experimentation process. Objects and materials are for Giovanni an inexhaustible source of inspiration and interpretation.

Amanda Caines -  A self taught mixed media jeweller who combines materials outside the conventional and expected forms. Each piece evokes a sense of place, time or environment. Brought up on the Sussex coast, she always collected materials, wood, ceramic, sea glass and a variety of found objects. Living now in London, she works and collects in the same way along the banks of the Thames.

Boodi Blu – “I find beauty and a sense of mystery in discarded objects and materials. Boodi Blu emerged a few years ago whilst walking my dog when I noticed a couple of pieces of beautiful blue and white broken china in the muddy ground. I soon realised that the whole area was covered in them, buried in the earth. I had always planned to make an elaborate mosaic table or piece of furniture for my home but after a year of collecting I had the idea to create jewellery.”

Gesine Hackenberg – “A basic theme in my work is placing ordinary objects of use in the perspective of jewellery. Objects of daily use often become intimately important and indispensable to people. What one keeps and owns, often contains an emotional value next to its practical function or worth. Wearing jewellery on the body is the most intimate and direct form of showing this specific relationship to an object. My pieces are based on craft techniques and various materials, which are telling their own stories about preciousness and adornment, like ceramic tableware, (precious) metal, Japanese Urushi lacquer and glassware.”

StayGoldMaryRose is a collection of work by Abigail MaryRose Clark. Abigail has been making her ‘Repurposed Vintage Teacup Bracelets’ since 2004, for retailers such as Anthropologie.

Lindsay PembertonRekindle is range of creatively upcycled jewellery and household objects made from vintage teacups and saucers. Liberating all the dust collecting china from your grandma’s cabinet and adorning your arms and wrists. The range includes the popular Tea Bangles, Heart Pendants, brooches with the new addition of the High Tea Stands. “My products are designed to challenge our thoughts of our everyday objects and rituals.  By reinventing traditional rituals and domestic objects they take on a new reading in each of our lives.”

Fast/Slow // Sail The Seven Seas upcycled military dress

Posted in fashion, shopping on Saturday, March 2nd, 2013

Just like the “safari/colonial” or “flowers prints” trends, the Military trend is one that’s been going strong for season and is certainly here to stay for a while yet. I’d never push a fad, but this is a versatile look that I can confidently advise to embrace. It’s also so ubiquitous that designers have been creating versions of it that include suede and tweed versions. But not why stay truer to it, with real military fabrics, just like the ones that Sail The Seven Seas upcycle.

LFW AW13 Special // Picks from the exhibitions

Posted in fashion, news on Thursday, February 28th, 2013

As you have read in all previous posts of this LFW AW13 Special, I attended all events where Slow fashion brands were involved. But I didn’t stop there. I also visited the Somerset House and Fashion Scout exhibitions at large, to have a complete overview of what the trends will be for the season, and also to find out about other brands that weren’t already on my list.

I did find a few very interesting ones. A couple of them (Blake LDN and Hellen Van Rees) do highlight their sustainability efforts. The other two (Negarin and Christopher Waller) don’t, but then proudly tell me of how they source their fabrics from the UK and Italy, and how all production is made in Britain.

While Hellen Van Rees has a more artistic and colourful approach, what I really appreciated about Blake LDN, Negarin and Christopher Waller were the simplicity, the clean lines, the graphic cuts and immaculate shapes. All perfect for a number of occasions, to be worn for work or events. That is, all I look for in a brand that I’d like to put in front of a client – and my clients are very often working women in search of quality and flattering pieces, that above all need to be versatile.

Negarin

The collection takes inspiration from the underground, anti-conformist 50s/60s vibe; silhouettes are slim and art house-y. As with all Negarin’s collections colours are vibrant and uplifting, with innocent neutrals meeting dynamic jewel-like tones to create a colour mood that works from day through night and takes the Negarin woman from one time zone to another. Negarin’s tailored pieces combine with fluid ones to meet the needs of every working woman’s wardrobe, with the interesting detail of a clever reversible twist. A trained artist and sculptor, Negarin Sadr weaves the story of her art into the medium of clothing, working with shapes. All garments are produced in the UK and fabrics are sourced in Europe.

Blake LDN

Heralding from London’s Central St Martins, Alice Ashby has previously worked as assistant knitwear designer at Rag & Bone in New York and co-founded luxury knitwear label The North Circular. She launched Blake LDN in Sept 2012. Blake LDN’s mission is to create contemporary knitwear that offers a more conscious alternative within the luxury market, with a focus on sound sourcing and manufacturing. AW13 was inspired by vintage ski images, adapting and creating a modern day take on the traditional chunky ski-knit, like new styles of bomber jackets, oversized boyfriend sweaters and chunky ribbed polo necks. Clashing hues of rich gold and bright neon framed with deep navys and army greens achieve a modern take on an everyday essential. Combining Merino wool, angora and Loro Piana cashmere this A/W collection is rich in texture, colour and pattern.

Christopher Waller

Founded in 2010, the Christopher Waller label aims to provide sophisticated urban women with luxurious staples that can easily make the transition from day to evening wear. Colour blocking and fabric blocking form the backbone of the Christopher Waller aesthetic. Fluid crepes are blended with suede, leather, heavy wool jersey and mohair to create statement pieces. Muted shades of red and teal are carried through into the digitally printed silks, contrasting with the heavier wool and leather. Christopher Waller is based in Peckham, south east London and draws inspiration for his collections from the architecture and surroundings of his home city. The collections are all manufactured in London with fabrics coming primarily from the UK and Italy.

Hellen Van Rees

A/W’13 SQUARE3 Angle: The Tranformation is Hellen van Rees’s second independent collection. It sees her continue the ideas born in her graduate collection: the same handmade tweed fabrics created using factory remnants and recycled threads, with the same three-dimensional threaded blocks creating a playful and futuristic silhouette. But this season is an exploration into what happens when yarns of all colours are combined in one textile. Hellen also uses new materials this season – a pitch black and bright white rubber-coating to create a stark contrast with the vibrant multicolour handmade tweeds. Combined with silhouettes inspired by classic Chanel skirt suits and contemporary art installations, the result is a visually strong but surprisingly wearable collection. Hellen van Rees is a Dutch fashion and textile designer who graduated from the prestigious MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins in London in February 2012. After graduating she moved to the Netherlands to start her own label. Her first collection was named “One to Watch” by Fashion Scout, where she returned to show this season.

LFW AW13 // Off Schedule // Choolips

Posted in fashion, news on Wednesday, February 27th, 2013

Choolips‘s AW collection is a true LFW Off Schedule affair: in that it wasn’t presented at LFW! Annegret Affolderbach, the designer behind the label, is truly independent even when it comes to her presentations. But since I’m covering the latest AW13 collections at the moment, I just had to give some space to this feel-good and do-good brand, whose prints just give me a buzz of energy.

Annegret describes ‘The sky was made of amethyst’ as “Stained glass windows swimming in watercolour seas, set against burning amethyst skies, whilst the promise of spring meadows teases with the hope of fresh beginnings.” So, how do you translate that into a print? “Our AW13 pushes the boundaries of traditional handprinted batik techniques local to Ghana/West Africa by combining our own ‘painting’ techniques with traditional batik stamping processes.”

All Choolips’s’ prints are handprinted by Ghanaian batikers. Inspired by people, their lives and entrepreneurial small businesses in developing economies, Annegret’s passion for textiles took her to West Africa with the intent to revamp traditional techniques and help sustain the artisans and entrepreneurs behind them. Choolips aims to create ‘New Heritage’ by harmonising the mindset of producers and consumers, by trading fairly and by producing locally with small water & carbon footprints.

Also, all accessories are hand-finished by seamstresses in Ghana, while the garments are tailored by social enterprise SOKO in Kenya. The fabrics are African cotton, and all prints are azo- and formaldehyde-free

Choolips counts legendary Opening Ceremony, Steven Alan & Asos.com amongst its stockists. So, while you wait for ‘The sky was made of amethyst’ to land in September, you can always feast your eyes on (and acquire!) the summer prints of their Golden Coast collection, or their trans-seasonal scarves.

LFW AW13 // Off Schedule // Atelier Tammam

Posted in fashion on Wednesday, February 27th, 2013

My favourite LFW experience this season was at Atelier Tammam. I loved the Slow feeling of it, both because is was a few steps away from the hustle and bustle of Somerset House, and because of its very concept.

Nestled in a pretty street only steps away from the Renaissance Hotel at St. Pancras, Atelier Tammam has a similar philosophy: to offer a thorough modern product and service, while celebrating the grandeur of the past. As designer Lucy Tammam puts it: “The Atelier offers a bespoke service, designing, pattern cutting and tailoring any kind of garment for any occasion to each individual customer. This season we have decided to recreate the showcases of traditional couture houses, to reflect not only our inspiration from the golden era of couture but also our dedication to offering garments that are made in traditional ways by and for real people.” So, for a limited number of guests, a ‘live’ show was offered rather than a catwalk, with a commentary describing every piece, its material and provenance.

The presentation started with a range of beautifully cut, flattering yet unusual day wear, including black and white eri silk hand loomed trousers and a black and white eri silk tunic, hand finished in the traditional method. The organic silk comes from Assam, it is guaranteed to be ahimsa, a cruelty free process which ensures the moth is allowed to fly before the cocoon is processed into yarn. The yarns are then hand woven by a co-operative in Eastern India. The rouching on the top is done by hand by artisans at a fair trade stitching unit in Bangalore. The houndstooth trousers are available in a variety of colours, hand loomed using spun eri silk. However, this season for the first time Tammam also sourced some local materials, like stock lace made in the UK, paired to organic fair trade cotton.

My favourite was certainly the Kirsten dress, that incorporates the philosophy of Slow Fashion in so many ways. This is a beautiful couture 2 piece gown in eri silk, a simple flattering design that lends itself to being turned inside out offering a new look instantly. This type of gown is perfect for a bride who wishes to reuse her wedding dress, or wants to update her look for her reception. For the ceremony, the dress can be worn with a British lace over layer, but afterwards it can be transformed, meaning it won’t be relinquished to a dust bag after only one (precious) days’ use.

Naturally, Atelier Tammam has become renowned for their bridal ranges, and it was wonderful to see the perfect cuts and delicate fabrics from up close. For example, an exquisite hand block printed and embroidered organza veil, done by hand by Ammu in Bangalore, Southern India: it takes her almost a month to embroider a veil of a standard size using a fine eri silk yarn. Other hand made lace accessories include boleros in peace silk and reclaimed tulle. I also appreciate Tammam’s efforts in minimising wastage, using clever pattern cutting to utilise offcuts of fabrics from other designs from past collections.

Lucy adds: “Atelier Tammam’s focus has always been on creating ethical fashion that does not look “ethical” in the stereotypical sense: our focus has always been on style while working with the possibilities offered to us through our unique supply chain of fair trade producers, eco friendly materials and traditional crafts.”

 

LFW AW13 // Off Schedule // Ecoluxe

Posted in fashion, news on Tuesday, February 26th, 2013

This season I attended Ecoluxe with the precise intent to meet an upcycling designer I’d been following for a while: Lisbeth Løvbak Berg. I was looking forward to see her multifunctional pieces, hand made in France from pre-consumer waste, and combined with eco materials such as Norwegian Wool. Lisbeth graduated from Oslo University College with a degree in fashion in 2010. She has trained with Hemyca and Phillipa Lepley Couture in London, as well as in the French confection business. She launched her first colleciton “Decay in Beauty in London autumn 2010 and from this has grown the brand L-L-B.

I also really liked the new raincoats by Supported By Rain, upcycled from lost or broken umbrellas. Interesting how they’ve played with different logos to emphasise the material’s origin and add texture to the pattern.

I was happy to finally meet Maria, the founder of Etrala London, a brand I’ve been following for a while. The fabrics were great, like the British wool tweed for the dresses. Perfect for work, but with each with a quirky detail, such as the fun colourful lining. I like their Slow concept of only producing as per demand to reduce surplus stock and wastage.

I had seen Bailey Tomlin‘s light and ethereal millinery at Ecoluxe before, but this season I was mostly attracted by her accessories, which she produces out of materials left over from the hats production. (I do suggest you have a look at her website for truly beautiful pictures of the pieces!)

Elena Garcia collection predictably was made with the best fabrics at the event – Elena uses organic silk and hand-dye techniques. I liked their luxurious feel, paired with the loose shapes and the tie-dye effects.

The new discovery this season was Danica Cosic, an American designer who moved to Marrackech and discovered the art of maroquinerie. She collaborated with local artisans with “the goal to provide a beautiful and unique fashion accessory, but also to support the local artisan businesses and provide a new platform for them to showcase their talents.  The female artisans are able to work from home, in an effort to provide additional income, while simultaneously continuing to care for their families.”

Weekend Trend // Wood rings

Posted in fashion, shopping on Sunday, February 24th, 2013

Rudá Rings - Contemporary jewellery made of Brazilian hardwood (sourced from pieces of old furniture and demolished houses) and raw stones including hematite, pyrite, vanadinite, uvite and lapislazuli. After decades as a designer for Brazilian shoes brands, Janice decided to set up her own fashion business. She was looking for something aesthetically original which, as a first rule, should be organic and environmental friendly. To package the rings Janice recycles coffee’s sisal bags. The ring is placed inside a loofah’s case made from loofah (vegetable bush) to protect it throughout the transport and delivery. Inside the package there is also one small carnauba wax can, in order to encourage the customer to care about the ring and make it to last longer preserving it beauty.

Ricardo Coacci: Also from Brazil, Ricardo Coacci is an autodidact of jewellery design. He considers wood a very noble material and makes use of recycled wood that forms the base of his work. He uses the same techniques as famous Brazilian sculptor Aleijadinho during the baroque period (1730 – 1814), which he enriches with his own research, developing a personal technique which is composed by everything he has learned from his past designing and goldsmith career.

Christine J Brandt – Christine’s pieces are finished in as natural a state as possible: the wood is never stained or varnished, but burnished and hand-rubbed with several coats of natural Danish oil to bring out the grain and natural colours in the wood.

Gustav Reyes – “I create jewelry with the mindset that each piece is a sculpture. Rings are the most sculptural of all of my work. With each piece, I attempt to create a conceptual object that respects craft, conveys the elements of design and sparks thought and excitement in the viewer. I place great importance on creating jewelry that demonstrates a deep appreciation and consideration for our natural world. To create my work, I use salvaged wood that is repurposed. I have incorporated wood from a bass violin and extra wood obtained from other wood workers. I also use Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) Certified wood. I use production methods that reduce waste by 80%. I am dedicated to preserving Nature’s infinite beauty and continue to search for more sustainable techniques.”

Anthony Roussel – Roussel applies delicate flowing lines and sweeping curves, meticulously layering sheets of wood into sinuous forms. His fascination with the repetitive linear patterns found within geological rock formations is echoed in his technique. Essentially he builds flat elements into fluid structures. Although formally trained in traditional metalwork, he discovered his real love for materials in wood after being introduced to working with various species by a violin maker. Through the form of 3D modeling software and digital production, he embraces avant-garde processes whilst still preserving hand craft and good workmanship.

Palestinian rings: Palestinian carvers turn olive wood into a way to overcome poverty. Rich in symbolism, grand in stature, and deeply rooted in culinary and ecological history, few trees claim as important a place in human society as the olive tree. Today, Bethlehem artisans meticulously chisel carefully harvested wedges of wood using a centuries-old tradition. Harvesting the wood requires great care. This typically means using only wood collected during the course of regular pruning of the trees. In other words, no trees are sacrificed for the finished products created by these artisans. Once carved, each piece is hand-embellished and prepared for packaging. In many cases, this finishing work is performed by people with special needs to provide quality employment for an often-neglected segment of society. This artisan group is also a proud member of the World Fair Trade Organization. Hearts is proud to support further expansion of their market by using their hand carving techniques in exclusive designs.

Nadya Hazbunova - This handmade jewelry collection of olive wood from Bethlehem was born in 2012. The beautiful grainy olive wood is transformed into a range of edgy jewellery engraved and assembled into wooden accessories by hand in workshops in Bethlehem.  Every single item is unique with a different grain of colours.Olive wood is a beautiful very durable, dense and high quality wood with grains of colors ranging from cream through pink to black with a fine texture. Some pieces carry verses by Palestinian poets, famous Arabic sayings and quotes or are simply decorated with beautiful shapes, Arabic letters, words and calligraphy.

Fast/Slow // Veja’s Cabas tote bag

Posted in fashion, shopping on Saturday, February 23rd, 2013

Welcome to a new little Rewardrobe column. Every time I flick through a magazine and see something for which I have the perfect Slow alternative, I will show you in here.

Uncertain which Slow brands to go for? Still of the idea that Slow is nice in theory, but really you’re more excited by what you see in the glossies or in mainstream stores windows? Or are you dedicated to Slow fashion, so you refrain from buying from the high-street, but you are still attracted by their propositions for the new season? Well, follow this column, and I’ll show you the better option.

For example, the other day I was reading… don’t quite remember actually! Either Elle or Vogue… anyway, was reading a glossy and saw a beautiful bag by Anya Hindmarch, in a great coral colour. But wait a minute! Doesn’t that remind me of something? Of course it does, I just saw it at Estethica, didn’t I? It’s the great Cabas tote by Veja! Which also comes in an array of vibrant colours. But it’s made of vegetable tanned leather and produced to high ethical labour standars. And, believe it or not, it’s a third of the price! £150 instead of £795 for the designer brand.

So, which route would you go down? The Designer (I must admit I can’t quite call it Fast fashion in this case – but you still pay a premium price just because the piece bears a certain logo on it), or the Slow?

You can buy the Veja bag straight from their website (in French), or from Toast in the UK.

LFW AW13 Special // Estethica, the accessories

Posted in fashion, news on Friday, February 22nd, 2013

I often question myself whether I’m more passionate about accessories than I am about clothes. And the answer is probably yes. I don’t wear precious jewellery but I like custom pieces, the bolder the better. I fall in love with a necklace a day and I sometimes (well, regularly) plan my outfit around which necklace and shoes I feel like wearing that day. Shoes and bags, I’m prepared to spend good money on, and see them last for years and years. I don’t wear hats much, but I still managed to be wowed by the millinery prowess I saw…

But let me show you (still in perfectly random order):

VEJA

Well, the fact that I’m starting from Veja is not so random after all. Indeed, they were at Estethica as Special Guest (a tradition started last season with Honest by.). Also, they were the only brand presenting a shoes collection (and if you recall how much I love brogues then you’ll know what I was immediately drawn to). So who are Veja? “Organic cotton, wild rubber, vegetable tanned leather, Veja tries to change world trade rules” – all explained in a few simple words. Since 2004, Veja has created trainers, bags and accessories which combine principles of economic, social and environmental development, working with a cooperative of 30 families of little producers, based in the North of Brazil. The brand’s main collection is trainers, but they also have Projet Numéro Deux, a range of bags and accessories made of ecological materials. All Veja leather goods are tanned with acacia extracts, a natural and non-polluting tannin.

In keeping with their Brazil relations, Veja have just collaborated with Dr Greg Asner, a research professor at Stanford University. Flying over the Amazon on a small plane, he detects carbon emanations from the ground and creates aerial cartographies of the Amazonian forest to track changes in forest cover and biodiversity over time. The thing is, these maps are beautifully colourful, and they have been the inspiration for a limited edition of trainers.

Bottletop

There was a bit of a Brazilian connection at Estethica this season. Just like Veja, Bottletop also manufacture there. If for Veja the strong link is with the country’s natural resources (like the natural Amazonian rubber), Bottletop were inspired by a local popular form of recycling, and they’ve turned it into a fashion product, that is lovingly crafted in Salvador de Bahia and supports artisans and their families. The AW13 collection consists of three distinct lines: the Leather, Silver and Enamel Line. My absolute favourite was the enamel, both in the petrol blue gloss, and in the black matte.

Rudá rings

If Veja and Bottletop are European brands that have understood the enormous potential of Brazil, Janice Perez hails directly from Belo Horizonte. Her contemporary jewellery is made of Brazilian hardwood, sourced from old furniture and demolished houses, and raw stones such as hematite, pyrite, vanadinite, uvite and lapislazuli. After decades as a designer for Brazilian shoes brands, Janice decided to set up her own fashion business. She was looking for something aesthetically original which, as a first rule, should be organic and environmental friendly. To package the rings Janice recycles coffee’s sisal bags. The ring is placed inside a loofah’s case made from loofah (vegetable bush) to protect it throughout the transport and delivery. Inside the package there is also one small carnauba wax can, in order to encourage the customer to care about the ring and make it to last longer preserving it beauty.

The North Circular

TNC returns to Estethica after a few seasons, at a time when the attention to Made In Britain labels is really strong, with their accessories made from British wool, including cashmere, alpaca and rare breed Wensleydale. All items are hand knitted, loomed and weaved in the UK to help regenerate the ailing wool industry and support local manufacturers and craftsmen. The new AW collection is called Tribes and plays with patterns, cut and function to denote heraldry across British taste, from Medieval armour to hipster dip-dye to the English Gentleman’s style.Scaled up hounds tooth, checker and herringbone are mixed together in graphic panels on hats, gloves and scarves in contrasting monochrome and red and black to a bold effect. More architectural pieces come in the structured fisherman’s collars, snoods, lapel scarves and shrugs with corresponding hats and gloves, all knitted in cables of varying size and tension.

Lost Property Of London

Another welcome returnee! Lost Property of London is an independent accessories brand handcrafted here in London, incorporating second-hand fabrics by transforming them into beautiful yet practical totes and travel bags. Each season, the collection will employ a new theme or textile, with the A/W13 collection featuring some of the UK’s finest. Courtesy of Britain’s top yacht clubs, each bag has been made from faded tarpaulins and weathered sails, complemented with leather. Katy Bell, the brand’s founder, told me that Lost Property of London has been asked to produce a limited collection using Liberty’s art fabrics. Can’t wait to see those, too!

Mich Dulce

Mich’s headpieces are whimsical, quirky and feminine all in one. That’s quite something already, until you find out how she produces such beauties, and then you don’t just love the pieces but admire the business, too. Mich Dulce works with T’nalak, a traditional Filipino fabric made of hand-woven banana fibers, each piece handmade by women members of a poverty alleviation community, to which Mich gives personal skills training. Out of this, she produces a collection which is bang on trend with her graphic monochrome and red and yellow accents. Ethical fashion needs to be edgy and stylish to compete for buyers’ and customers’ attention, to drive sales and ultimately trade for the people who produce it. Mich achieves this 100%.

Pachacuti

“Our 21st Birthday collection has been inspired by four diverse themes, Supernova, Spiced Jazz, Peacock Revolution and Proper Country. ‘Supernova’ is a modern collection of fresh shapes
and cool colours, bringing a new look to winter in the city, reinterpreting utilitarian headwear such as aviator hats, moped helmets and riding hats. ‘Spiced Jazz’ matches rich, warm colours with neat,
stingy-brims and sharp details. The ‘Peacock Revolution’ combines the dapper with the opulent. Deep, rich jewel colours are combined with amboyant feathers, hand-woven Fair Trade Ecuadorian ribbons and Devon silk ribbons in a nod to the dandies of the past. ’Proper Country’ provides perfect hats for prowling both countryside and city. This is a luxurious mix of earthy colours, natural feather trims and horsehair bands. It goes without saying that all of our AW13 adheres to the highest standards of Fair Trade and Sustainability. Pachacuti has been a pioneer in ethical fashion since 1992 and continues to push the standards higher. For 2013 we are excited to be piloting the new WFTO Fair Trade Guarantee System, alongside People Tree in the UK and seven other Fair Trade organisations around the world, with the new label expected to be launched this Summer.”

 Phannatiq & Ada Zanditon

Wait, I hear you say, didn’t you already covered these two collections in your previous post on womenswear? Well, yes I did, but did you really think I would miss these two boards of super cool accessories? Ada Zanditon has been collaborating with Luca Romanyi for a few season now – but while the previous collections were based on wood, this one is all about mirror reflections and metal. Talking of reflections, Phannatiq picks on the fluo colour of the hi-vis uniforms she’s been inspired by for her jackets, and transfers them onto light and geometric perspex. Want, want, want!

LFW AW13 Special // Estethica, the womenswear brands

Posted in fashion, news on Thursday, February 21st, 2013

The best edition of Estethica so far? This seems to be the shared opinion. Certainly it felt fresh and energetic, with brands that have been pillars of the exhibition for seasons, others that have decided to come back after a hiatus, and some very young blood pumping energy and vision into this corner of Somerset House – all with truly great collections.

As usual, I spoke to all designers, and each of them was positively impressed with the turnout of journalists and buyers, with orders having been placed since the very first day of the exhibition.

This season, the selection included 14 brands, very evenly divided into 7 womenswear and 7 accessories labels – or at least that’s how I’ve grouped them, just because I didn’t want to put together a super-mammoth report… So in perfectly random order, I’ll start from the beautiful frocks & co.:

Beautiful Soul

Beautiful Soul London is a quintessentially British, luxury label. The AW13/14 collection is called  ‘I ♥ Ladybirds’ and is, as usual, inspired by romantic images of nature mixed with memories of an Emglish childhood. It is a journey through an English country garden, reflected in the unique statement print featuring bouquets of hydrangeas, with dainty ladybirds nestled on the flower.
The collection range includes a selection of stunning day-to-evening dresses, playsuits and separates, alongside a classic trench coat and shift dresses made of Nottingham lace. [The collection was presented with a short film, that you can watch here]

Liora Lassalle

Liora is the new protégée of upcycling visionary Orsola De Castro – having won the Estethica/Veolia Re-source competition with Central Saint Martins and being offered the opportunity to be mentored as part of Reclaim To Wear as well as by Willie Walters of CSM and Anna Orsini of the British Fashion Council. The original mix of reclaimed reflective workwear, delicate lace and denim is a new interesting mix in the upcycling panorama, and has already earned Liora a stockist in Yoox, with its dedicated sustainable fashion platform Yooxygen. [The collection was presented with a short film, that you can watch here]

Phannatiq

Phannatiq is a crossover brand, masterfully mixing ethereal fabrics with industrial prints, and luxury with an urban feel. Further drawing on their love affair with the vistas of London’s urban decay, AW13 collection Refraction takes inspiration from the hi-vis, low profile people who hold our cities together. Organic, unbleached bamboo, silk and cotton and Harris Tweed form the basis of the collection with the elegant addition of panels and trims using fig tree bark, recycled leather and locally felted Cotswold wool. For this collection, all textiles are produced using only natural plant dyes, and the majority of chemical waste have been eliminated from the textile manufacturing process. Also, Anna Skodbo, the designer, proudly explained to me how all fabrics have been dyed so that they can be machine washed and won’t need dry cleaning – something that gets a major thumbs up from Rewardrobe! [The collection was presented with a short film, that you can watch here]

Goodone

Goodone have been regulars to Estethica for many a season, and I was very happy to see them back after a couple of seasons’ hiatus. During which they haven’t been idle! But setting up a bigger production facility so that they can manufacture for other brands too. Nin Castle, co-founder of the brand, explained to me that she wants to produce bigger volumes, so that they can really make a difference, really save substantial amounts of textile waste. The AW13 collection fits perfectly with two major trends. One is about the reneissance of British wool, that they celebrate by using a lot of Aran patterns (which are originally from Ireland really, but you get my drift…), the other one is the monochrome geometrics that have been prominent in most catwalk shows. Personally, j’adore!

Henrietta Ludgate

Henrietta manages to once again translate her ‘retro-futurism’ style into a new declination – this time inspired by nature. The shapes are like cocoons, the armour created by insects as they face the cold winter, while Henrietta told me the colour palette was drawn from the different shades of ice. But then again, the curvaceous, geometric shapes and the shimmer in the fabrics are glass- and steel-like, and the ‘wings’ and collars come straight from a ‘Jane Jetson’ costume. Once again, Henrietta has remained true to her design house’s eco ethos, using upcycled fabrics sourced from within the British Isles. Super soft cashmere, wool crepe and machine washable jerseys play heavily throughout, giving the collection a distinctive high end look.

Ada Zanditon

Ada’s AW13 collection is a natural evolution of SS13, Tigress Reign. March Of The Tigress “portrays a subversion of the Anna Karenina narrative if Anna had left all the men in her life and gone on a quest to become the protector of Tigresses and create a corridor for their safe passage. She is a warrior, a traveller, and a creative force, the eternal feminine power”. Silhouettes are bold in typical Zanditon style, featuring sculptural coats and jackets, flattering dresses and bright and bold prints. The fabrics used are bamboo silk and organic cotton, which is a breakthrough for the brand, now able to achieve high quality, bright digital print on cotton. Adhering to the principles of Wear+Care , the collection features high-end party dresses that are machine washable. So many steps forward! [The collection was presented with a short film, that you can watch here]

Katrien Van Hecke

Katrien Van Hecke is an emerging womenwear designer based in Antwerp, Belgium. Her fashion stands for modern artisanal luxury with a strong focus on silk and hand-dyed dresses. Katrien always starts from raw white materials, that she uses as a canvas to find structures and prints. ”Every garment can be seen as an individual object. This results in imperfections and variations, which I consider to be distinctive characteristics”, says Katrien. The colours come from herbs and spices that are fixed with harmless chemicals into the fiber of the fabric, and overlaid with prints that are based on airbrush and salt reactions. The selection for AW13 is Saint-John’s wort, clove, eucalyptus, alma, curry. I also really liked the monochrome jacquard coat, made of  yarn recycled from old wollen garments. [The collection was presented with a short film, that you can watch here]